Showing posts with label Neil A Waring. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Neil A Waring. Show all posts

Wyoming Timeline and Mark Twain Too


Archeological evidence suggests that humans were living in Wyoming for thousands of years before it became famous for trappers and traders. The first trappers had pioneered, by the 1830s, what would become the Oregon Trail.
Deep Ruts of the Oregon Trail 
Meanwhile back east wheat crops failed in1836, and in 1837 panic spread as banks failed and depression stretched across America and Europe. It was hard times, a time when people started to question their lives and what they were doing with them. Time to move west. Horace Greeley would not utter his famous, “Go West Young Man, go West and grow up with the country,” for another two and a half decades, but Americas were moving and they were moving west.

The great fort at the confluence of the North Platte and Laramie rivers, destined to become the most famous stopping off point on the Oregon Trail, Fort William (1834) and then Fort John (1841), and finally Fort Laramie, (1847), was a welcome relief for westward travelers. The fort was well supplied and attempted to cater to the needs of all types of travelers.
Laramie River on the grounds of Fort Laramie
From 1841 until the end of the civil war as many as a half million men, women and children traveled the trail west. Some wanted to farm, others a new life, and a few, gold and riches, but they all came through, only a handful stayed. Wyoming was much like a modern-day Interstate highway, people quickly traveled through, in a hurry to get somewhere else.

 Even Mark Twain seemed in a hurry to get through and didn’t seem overly impressed with the Wyoming scenery. “We passed Fort Laramie in the night, and on the seventh morning out we found ourselves in the Black Hills, with Laramie Peak at our elbow (apparently) looming vast and solitary -- a deep, dark, rich indigo blue in hue, so portentously did the old colossus frown under his beetling brows of storm-cloud. He was thirty or forty miles away, in reality, but he only seemed removed a little beyond the low ridge at our right.” This quote is from Twain’s trip through the state and recounted in his novel, Roughing It, (page 55), published in 1871.

Two things have always struck me about the Twain quote. First why would a stage pass on through the most famous stopover in the west, and at night? Second, how did it take a week to write about Laramie Peak being at his elbow? This area, with the peak at his immediate left elbow, would be on the trail between present day Guernsey and Glendo. The trip from Fort Laramie, through Guernsey to Glendo is a bit less than 45 miles. If Twain and his stage coach had only traveled that far in six days, they were creeping at a snail’s pace. Wagon trains traveled twice that speed or better. Maybe his notes or his memory was a bit off on this point, or it is possible he was having one of those, “are we there yet,” times.
Laramie Peak from the trail near Guernsey
  When Wyoming became a recognized territory in 1868, a few came. Later the railroad (1869), brought people and business to the southern part of the state.  Spreading across the state were would-be homesteaders and ranchers who brought in cattle and helped build settlements in the wide open spaces of Wyoming. Enough settled for the territory to become a state by 1890.

Interesting that many history sources mention the first travelers on the trail were going to Oregon and California and later travelers headed to Utah, Colorado, and Montana, not many mention Wyoming.

Not today!

Today Wyoming is no longer a pass through state. It has become a destination for tourists and for business, still small in population, the West lives on in this rugged state.
Mark Twain's view hasn't changed much
Now that’s funny – my grammar and spell checker highlighted three errors in the Mark Twain quote, not sure Mr. Twain would like that. He didn’t like editors messing with his stuff, liked the way it looked after he wrote put it down on paper.



The Jim Bridger Trail

In 1862, gold was discovered in Virginia City, Montana Territory. Gold seekers, businessmen, thieves and get rich schemers quickly followed. The fastest and most efficient way to reach the fields from the east was to travel along the Bozeman Trail. To do so, travelers would follow the Oregon Trail to present-day Douglas, Wyoming where the trail turned north and went into present day Montana then turned west. Today a driver could take I-25 north to I-90 then turn west. From my little village of Guernsey, it is a drive of 603 miles and can be made in about 9 hours, in today’s world.
The road may have been fast, but there was trouble, Indians along the way did not want people traveling it. The entire Powder River Basin had been long held by local tribes, and they were not about to give it up for a white man’s road to gold. Bozeman was a great promoter of his road, and many lives were lost because of it, but there was another way.
The Jim Bridger Road, or Bridger Trail, was much less known, but it was safe and as fast to Virginia City as the Bozeman Trail.
Old Gabe - Jim Bridger
This trail, instead of turning north at Douglas, continued another 100, or so, miles along what is today Highway 20/26, then turned north at the Waltman crossing and worked its way north and west through Thermopolis and up into Montana. Not a difficult area to traverse and safe all the way to the gold.
Sign at the Waltman Wyoming Reststop

So why was it never use? Difficult to say other than the fact the government did not attempt to sell this better way. If settlers and miners would have used Bridger’s road Western history would have been forever changed. Battles like the Hayfield fight, Wagon Box fight, and the Fetterman Massacre may well never have happened. It is also possible that Lt. Col George Armstrong Custer and the Seventh may have never been sent to Montana if not for the Bozeman Trail and the trouble it caused.
Still a desolate area - this shot from a few miles east of the crossing

A Little Fact and A little Fiction

Nice smaller home available early spring. Prefer nice bluebird or wren family.
Home Sweet Home

A snapshot of Wyoming – coal trains and mountain peaks.


Changing fall colors in a stand of Cottonwood, the Wyoming state tree, and a lone tree on the rolling plains of eastern Wyoming. I took these two photos from the same spot. Facing north for the single pine, and south for the Cottonwoods.



Who knew? Seagulls can walk on water.



Have a super weekend

The Portuguese Houses


Fort Laramie was the first settlement in Wyoming, but it did not house the first settlers. Several trapper-mountain men had established permanent homes before Fort Laramie in 1834.
Edward Rose, who built a cabin on the Big Horn River in 1807-08, is widely thought to be the first non-Indian to settle in Wyoming. Rose built the cabin, but most of his known history is of him living with Indians within their villages.
Bighorn River
Robert Stuart, who built a residence near Casper in 1812, is also considered one of the state’s earliest settlers.
The first know trader was Antonio Mateo, who established a trading post on the Middle Fork of the Powder River in 1828. This trading post, called the Portuguese Houses, consisted of several log-hewn buildings surrounded by a ten foot high, 200 X 200 stockade. Not much is known about him other than his name and today only a few mounds and deeply set rotting post bottoms are the only thing left.
The Stockade may have looked like this
In that day and time he most likely traded, tobacco, coffee, flour, sugar, lead, gunpowder, cooking utensils, knives and trinkets for furs. He reportedly had a wooden fur press made of cottonwood logs to press the beaver and sometimes other furs, into bundles for transportation to eastern markets. His fort was substantial enough that he stored furs for free trappers and for the very powerful Hudson Bay Company.
Fur Press Reproduction
Wow – this is post number 200, can’t believe it has been that many or that long. Thanks for reading, I am looking forward to another 200 or more.
200 Posts - Think I will rest a bit





Gannett Peak Wyoming



Gannett Peak, Wyoming’s highest mountain, reaches 13,785 feet. The Peak is more than 10,000 feet higher than Wyoming’s lowest point on the Belle Fourche River in northeast Wyoming where the elevation is a mere 3,125 feet above sea level.
Gannett Peak

Gannett Peak was named for Henry Gannett a Harvard educated geographer and map maker who traveled west on the Hayden expedition to map the greater Yellowstone area. The Peak probably would have been named after the pathfinder himself, John C. Fremont, but he had already named a peak after himself mistakenly thinking it the tallest in the area. 
Henry Gannett

Seems like Gannett Peak is a great name in this day and age as Mr. Gannett is considered the father of the Quadrangle which is considered the basis for all topographical maps in the United States.

Thursday – Wyoming Trivia

1.  What writer is honored by a monument in downtown Medicine Bow, Wyoming?
2. Name the two tribes included in the Fort Bridger Treaty of 1868.
3.  This became the first incorporated town in Wyoming in 1884, six years before statehood.
4.  This animal, found in Wyoming, is used as our nation’s symbol of wilderness areas?

See answers below photo
Grizzly Bear - seemed a lot closer when I snapped this photo


     1. Owen Wister – it’s across the street from the Virginian Hotel
     2. Shoshone and Bannock
     3. Hartville - a five-minute drive from my home

     4. Grizzly Bear - maybe I gave this away with the photo

Mountain Man - Mystery Man

Although the trapper period of Wyoming history lasted only about 20 years, (1820-1840) there was some activity by mountain man/trappers before that time. Those that made it are remembered as the colorful characters they were. One of the most famous, or in some circles, infamous men was Edward Rose. Rose was the son of a white trader and an African American/Cherokee mother. He was more than likely the first resident of Wyoming’s Big Horn Basin. Rose was in the Basin as early as 1807 or 08, a decade and more before the trapper period in the west.



Rose was described by Washington Irving as, “A dogged, sullen, silent fellow of sinister aspect more of a savage than a civilized man in his appearance.” Rose, who may have been a river pirate on the Mississippi before becoming a legend in the West, purportedly left the east after being released or escaping chains put on him by the law.

Washington Irving


Rose was adopted into the Crow tribe and was at times called by one of two Crow names, Five Scalps after killing five Blackfeet in and battle, and Nez Coupe, meaning Cut Nose. The Nez Coupe moniker referred to the scar and a small missing part on the side of the tip of his nose. Westerners who know Rose never saw him without the prominent scar leaving this historian to surmise that it was a result of a mix-up on the river. 
Mississippi River near Vicksburg Mississippi - I took this shot last October

Mississippi River near Vicksburg Mississippi - I took this shot last October



The exact year of Rose’s death is unknown, but some believe he died with legendary Mountain man Hugh Glass on the Bighorn River in a fight with the Arikara in 1833. Rose would have been about 53 at the time, quite a few years for the life he led. 

Me and a Mountain Man -not saying which is which

Relief from the Heat

Tired of all this heat?
Hey, remember last February 4 - yea, me neither? But I have photos.
Still hoping summer is about over?


The Dillon Doublejack

The Dillon Doublejack, a newspaper founded by Grant Jones did not last long, 1902-1904 and the town itself disappeared by 1907.  Not much of a story there except that Jones was quite a western character and helps the legend of his paper live on to modern times.

Jones did all he could to advertise mining jobs in Wyoming, especially in and around the nearest large town, Encampment. However, most of the responses he got were from people more interested in hunting than in hard rock mining. Jones grew so frustrated that he invented and wrote about new animals hoping to change hunters into miners.

The  Blackboar may have been the most deadly of his fictional game animals. This vicious beast had four legs, short ones on its left and long ones on its right. These purportedly were so the animal could walk level along the side of a mountain. The only way to catch it was by turning it around which caused it to tumble down the mountain.

Hunters could also pursue the Cogly Woo a six legged animal with a tail like a sharp drill bit. With hunters in hot pursuit the Cogly Woo simply stops, spins faster and faster and disappears into the ground.

My personal favorite of Grant Jones fictitious Wyoming big game animals is the One-Eyed Screaming Aemu, (his spelling, may have been trying for Emu) a giant, Sesame Street big bird like creature. When cornered it stops looks in scorn at the hunters and with a vile sounding gulp swallows itself. Ouch!
This is what the hunters really wanted to find


Sadly Jones, who was an 1897 graduate of Northwestern, died before his thirtieth birthday. He had started as a promising news man in Chicago, but drinking and drug abuse shortened both his career and his life. His death was attributed to a combination of alcohol and morphine.


If any readers are wondering about double jack drilling, it is a method where two men work together, one man holds and turns a large bit after each blow while his partner swings a large sledgehammer driving the bit deeper and deeper. (I have seen it in a few old time black and white movies)
No photos of the Dillon or Encampment, Wyoming area, so I will settle for this one of Laramie Peak

A Wyoming Morning

Early morning - not really - hike in Guernsey State Park today. Nothing like living in Wyoming, getting up to the cool air and going out on an adventure. Well, it's an adventure when you are well-seasoned citizens like we are.

Wyoming - the best place to live.
Saw this young lady as we were leaving the park this morning
View from Black Canyon Trail
Early summer rains have kept the sunflowers growing



Wyoming Trivia Questions


1. Which came first The University of Wyoming or the State of Wyoming?
2. With all of the recent news about disease in wild rabbits - Wyoming has three types of rabbits - name them.


Answers below



1.University      2.  Jackrabbit, Cottontail and Snowshoe